5 Secrets to Taking More Professional Photos

By: Phil Thornton

One of the most popular gifts this past holiday season was the digital SLR (single-lens reflex) camera. With companies like Canon and Nikon in fierce competition for the consumer market, the prices for high quality consumer level digital SLR's dropped significantly in 2008. If you are a proud owner of one of these amazing cameras but a little confused on how to operate them to their full potential then this top ten list is for you. Here are a few tips and tricks to help you create better photographs and introduce you to the world of digital photography.

1. Automatic Modes are not your friend

When taking your first photo with your new SLR you most likely shot in one of the automatic modes. Although these modes are by far the easiest modes to shoot in, they very rarely produce high quality photographs. When you shoot in automatic modes you are basically letting the camera make all of the decisions for you. The camera selects the aperture automatically, the exposure automatically, and sets the ISO automatically. In most cases it is also focusing automatically. To achieve that professional look in your images you have to leave the comforts of automatic modes and explore the other shooting modes your camera has to offer.

2. Aperture Priority Mode

This is probably the single most powerful tip on this list. If you only learn how to shoot in one mode on your new camera, this mode will give you the most dramatic results. Your aperture is what determines the depth of field in an image. Shooting with a low number set for your aperture (4.0 and lower) will leave your subject in focus while giving the background a nice blurred and out of focus look. This helps distinguish your subject and draw in the viewer's eye. Consult your manual for more information on shooting in this mode.

3. Composition

This is probably the easiest tip to begin practicing. Instead of centering your subject in the middle of every photograph try mixing it up a little! Photography should be fun and exciting! Experiment with different compositions to your photographs. Try tilting the camera slightly to the left or right. Don't forget to shoot vertically as well as horizontally. Vertical images are sometimes called "portraits" because they generally make for a better format for images of people. Study the rule of thirds. The rule of thirds is one of the most fundamental composition rules an artist uses. If you were to take your photo and divide it into thirds vertically and horizontally you would make a grid. The rule of thirds dictates that when interesting things are on the lines of this imaginary grid then it tends to look better. So put your nephew or niece a third of the way over to the right or left and add a little art to your images!



4. Start looking for light

The hardest skill to master in photography is understanding light, but taking a little bit of time to look for it and appreciate it can make a huge difference in your photos. Photography is simply the recording of light and the sooner you can wrap your head around that concept the sooner you will be able to improve your images. Don't just look at your subject; look at the light hitting your subject. When photographing people you want indirect lighting, lighting that is coming from an angle other than straight from the camera. Flashes, especially on-camera flashes, can ruin an image. That little pop-up flash that tries to jump up when you take your photos can easily ruin a beautiful image. Learn how to disable your flash and shoot with available light.

5. Shoot, shoot, shoot

If you are serious about becoming a better photographer the best thing you can do is practice. I know this might sound like common sense but people seem to quickly loose interest when they aren't creating amazing images immediately. Stick to it, photograph something everyday, make it part of your daily schedule. When you wake up in the morning grab the camera and find something to shoot, it could be your breakfast, your dog, your mailbox, anything. Being comfortable with your new camera is key and if you aren't shooting with it regularly you will never feel in control.

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About the Author
Phil Thornton is a Nashville Wedding Photographer and owner of Phindy Studios. Visit http://www.phindystudios.com for more information and photography resources.
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Learn Wedding Photography - Preparation Basics For The Big Day

Pix by Visuallens

Like many professionals, Tom Jackson began his career by shooting weddings. You can make a substantial income shooting weddings with very little overhead. He would like to share with you of his experiences in this article.

If you have been used to taking photos with a traditional camera and film, you may be surprised at how easy it can be to lose a whole memory card full of pictures, because of seemingly simple errors. With a film camera. it does not matter if the battery gives out right at the time you take a photo. The only problem that might occur, is that you lose that one shot. You just rewind the film, and you are good to go. As great as digital is, there are pitfalls that can really bite you if you do not prepare for them.

You need to make time to plan ahead whenever you are about to take important photos for any event, be it a wedding, graduation or even a family day out sightseeing in a new city. And the reason for the time? Lets take a deeper look. Each of the points I cover here carry the same weight as the other. In other words, do all of the following to make sure that you have a successful day, taking wonderful photos for you and the subjects.

1. Make sure that all your batteries are fully charged.

If your camera uses a proprietary battery, then you need to make sure that it is fully charged before you start the days event. Depending on how many photos you may take on the day, (see, more planning), you may need to buy an extra battery and have it fully charged as well. A lot of the smaller compact cameras, and even the larger DSLRs, often take special built batteries. They can be quite expensive, but if you think you might be taking a large number of photos, then it will be to your benefit to purchase an extra battery. It will always come in handy in the future, so it will never be a waste of your money.
2. Make sure that you have enough memory cards to hold all of the photos you will be taking on the day.

Many of the smaller compact cameras can only take smaller capacity memory cards. So, if you are planning on taking photos for a special days event, then it would be wise to make sure that you have one or two spare memory cards. Also, be aware, that if your camera can take the larger capacity memory cards, and you think you can take all the photos on just one large card, then you also need to consider that if you have problems with that card, you will lose all the images from the day. That’s why I often suggest having two or three cards available, so that if anything were to happen to one of your cards, you would still have images on the other cards. Some of the larger capacity cards available these days, can store hundreds and even thousands of images before you need to change to a new card. I can only imagine the pain of losing a card with hundreds of irreplaceable images.

3. Before you start the days event, make sure that you format the memory cards and get them prepared for the days event.

Be sure to format the card in the camera you will be using for the days event. Industry experts all agree that the best way to format and prepare a memory card, is to do it in the camera you will be using. Do not format the card using your computer. By using the cameras, it ensures that you have maximum compatibility. Also, if there is going to be a problem with the card, this is most often the time where the problem will show up. If the card does not format properly in the camera, then do not use that card during the event, but try and rectify the problem when you return home. Never try and use a card that shows any sign of a problem. It is just not worth the effort. You can try all kinds of things once you get home and have the time to spend and diagnose the problem.

4. Never use a memory card in more than one kind of camera without formatting the card.

You run the risk of causing problems if you take a card out of one camera and use it in another camera that is not the same make and model. Most cameras will write the file a little differently, and so if you use the card in a different camera, you again run the risk of losing images. If you intend to use a card in a different camera, that make sure that you copy all the files onto your computer, and then format the card in the other camera before use.

5. Part of the reason for item 1 above (fully charged batteries), is not just to make sure you have enough power to take photos during the days event, but also to ensure that the camera will not power off during writing a file to the memory card. If the camera battery fails while writing a file, you will not only lose that image, but the rest of the images on the card may be lost forever. A memory card is just like a computer hard drive. It has a directory and file structure so that the camera and your computer know where the files are, how many files are on the card, and how big the files are. If the camera fails during writing a file to the card, it can corrupt the card, just like a hard drive crash. Also, never take a card out of the camera while the file is still being written to the card. Always make sure that if you need to remove the card after taking a photo, wait a few seconds to make sure the file has been written to the card to avoid problems.

6. When it comes time to move your photos onto your computer’s hard drive, I suggest that you use a memory card reader and not the camera. Again, it is always possible that the camera’s battery could fail during the process to copy the photos over to your hard drive. This will not usually be a problem, but it could cause the card to become corrupt and therefore potentially lose your images. Also, it is usually much faster to use a memory card reader to transfer your images. Card readers are very inexpensive, and you have a choice of using a multi format reader or one designed just for the card type your camera uses. They are so cheap, that I always carry one with me so that if I need to, I can either copy files to a computer that happens to be at the location I am shooting, or to display some of the images onto the computer monitor for the client or subjects to see right away.

So, if you would really like to lose all those treasured photos, if you really want to have the hassle of explaining to your client, family or friends that you have lost all of the images you took, then just ignore these tips. You will lose some money, some friends and have to endure the wrath of some potentially very angry people. And you will lose the word of mouth advertising that can end up making you a lot of money over the years. There are wedding photographers who consistently make well into the 6 figure income. And in the US alone, the wedding photography market is in excess of five billion dollars a year. Not a bad market to be in.

So, if you follow these simple steps, you will ensure that your images will be saved, and everyone will live happily ever after. OK, well, maybe we do not need to be that melodramatic, but I am sure you get the picture (pun intended). Your clients will be happy, you will be happy, and your wallet will be happy. Plus, you get the benefit and the pride of knowing that you did a good job and that a small part of you will live on and be enjoyed by generations of people looking at your photos. Just like an artist has people viewing their paintings. It just does not get better than that. Enjoy.

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You can get more info on wedding photography, cameras and computer image editing, and see examples of his work, or get more info on how to start your own business http://howtoshootweddings.net or for free hints and tips visit the blog http://learnweddingphotography.blogspot.com

Top Ten Digital Photography Tips

Story by Derrick Story, author of Digital Photography Pocket Guide, 3rd Edition

You’ve heard this before: Digital cameras do all the work. You just push the button and great pictures magically appear. The better the camera, the better the photos. Isn’t that right? Heck no!

The truth is that you can make great photos with a simple consumer point-and-shoot camera, or take lousy shots with the most expensive Nikon. It’s not the camera that makes beautiful images; it’s the photographer. With a little knowledge and a willingness to make an adjustment here and there, you can squeeze big time photos out of the smallest digicam.

To help you down the road to great image making, here are ten tips that will enable you shoot like a pro (without maxing out your credit card on all that expensive equipment).

1. Warm Up Those Tones

Have you ever noticed that your shots sometimes have a cool, clammy feel to them? If so, you’re not alone. The default white balance setting for digital cameras is auto, which is fine for most snapshots, but tends to be a bit on the “cool” side.

When shooting outdoor portraits and sunny landscapes, try changing your white balance setting from auto to cloudy. That’s right, cloudy. Why? This adjustment is like putting a mild warming filter on your camera. It increases the reds and yellows resulting in richer, warmer pictures.

If you don’t believe me, then do a test. Take a few outdoor shots with the white balance on auto, then take the same picture again with the setting on cloudy. Upload the images to your computer and look at them side by side. My guess is that you’ll like the warmer image better.

2: Sunglasses Polarizer

If you really want to add some punch to your images, then get your hands on a polarizing filter. A polarizer is the one filter every photographer should have handy for landscapes and general outdoor shooting. By reducing glare and unwanted reflections, polarized shots have richer, more saturated colors, especially in the sky.

What’s that you say? Your digital camera can’t accommodate filters. Don’t despair. I’ve been using this trick for years with my point-and-shoot cameras. If you have a pair of quality sunglasses, then simply take them off and use them as your polarizing filter. Place the glasses as close to the camera lens as possible, then check their position in the LCD viewfinder to make sure you don’t have the rims in the shot.

If your camera doesn’t accept filters, then you can still achieve the effects of a polarizer by placing your sunglasses over the lens. Figure 2a is shot normally without any filtration. Figure 2b is shot during the same session, but with sunglasses placed over the lens. Notice the enhanced colors and deeper sky tones. (Canon PowerShot S200, Program mode)	Figure 2a.
	Figure 2b.

For the best effect, position yourself so the sun is over either your right or left shoulder. The polarizing effect is strongest when the light source is at a 90-degree angle from the subject.

3. Outdoor Portraits That Shine

One of the great hidden features on digital cameras is the fill flash or flash on mode. By taking control of the flash so it goes on when you want it to, not when the camera deems it appropriate, you’ve just taken an important step toward capturing great outdoor portraits.

In flash on mode, the camera exposes for the background first, then adds just enough flash to illuminate your portrait subject. The result is a professional looking picture where everything in the composition looks good. Wedding photographers have been using this technique for years.

Figure 3. By placing the subjects in the open shade beneath a tree and turning on the fill flash, both the boys and the background are properly exposed. (Canon PowerShot G2, 1/250th at f-4, flash on)

After you get the hang of using the flash outdoors, try a couple variations on this theme by positioning the subject so the sun illuminates the hair from the side or the back, often referred to as rim lighting. Another good technique is to put the model in the shade under a tree, then use the flash to illuminate the subject. This keeps the model comfortable and cool with no squinty eyes from the harsh sun, and this often results in a more relaxed looking portrait.

Remember, though, that most built-in camera flashes only have a range of 10 feet (or even less!), so make sure you don’t stand too far away when using fill flash outdoors.

4. Macro Mode Madness

Remember as a kid discovering the whole new world beneath your feet while playing on the grass? When you got very close to the ground, you could see an entire community of creatures that you never knew existed.

These days, you might not want to lie on your belly in the backyard, but if you activate the close up mode on your digital camera and begin to explore your world in finer detail, you’ll be rewarded with fresh new images unlike anything you’ve ever shot before.

Even the simplest object takes on new fascination in macro mode. And the best part is that it’s so easy to do with digital cameras.

Figure 4. Nature looks much different, and sometimes more compelling, at close range. (Canon PowerShot G2, Programmed exposure, spot meter, Close Up mode, flash off)

Just look for the close up or macro mode icon, which is usually a flower symbol, turn it on, and get as close to an object as your camera will allow. Once you’ve found something to your liking, hold the shutter button down halfway to allow the camera to focus. When the confirmation light gives you the go ahead, press the shutter down the rest of the way to record the image.

Keep in mind that you have very shallow depth of field when using the close up mode, so focus on the part of the subject that’s most important to you, and let the rest of the image go soft.

5. Horizon Line Mayhem

For some mysterious reason, most human beings have a hard time holding the camera level when using the LCD monitors on their digicams. The result can be cockeyed sunsets, lopsided landscapes, and tilted towers.

Part of the problem is that your camera’s optics introduce distortion when rendering broad panoramas on tiny, two-inch screens. Those trees may be standing straight when you look at them with the naked eye, but they seem to be bowing inward on your camera’s monitor. No wonder photographers become disoriented when lining up their shots.

Figure 5. How do you square up an image in the LCD viewfinder so it appears “level” when you view it later on the computer? Look for nature’s horizontal lines and use them as guides. Sometimes you can use the line where the sky meets the ocean, other times you can use a strip of land as your level. In this case I used the shoreline of a mountain lake to help me align this composition. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture Priority exposure set to f-8, polarizer filter)

What can you do? Well, there’s no silver bullet to solve all of your horizon line problems, but you can make improvements by keeping a few things in mind.

First of all, be aware that it’s important to capture your images as level as possible. If you’re having difficulty framing the scene to your liking, then take your best shot at a straight picture, reposition the camera slightly, take another picture, and then maybe one more with another adjustment. Chances are very good that one of the images will “feel right” when you review them on the computer. Simply discard the others once you find the perfectly aligned image.

If you practice level framing of your shots, over time the process will become more natural, and your percentage of level horizon lines will increase dramatically.

6: Massive Media Card

When you’re figuring out the budget for your next digital camera, make sure you factor in the purchase of an additional memory card. Why? Because the cards included with your new high-tech wonder toy are about as satisfying as an airline bag of peanuts when you’re dying of hunger.

If you have a 3 megapixel camera, get at least a 256MB card, 512MBs for 4 megapixel models, and 1GB for for 6 megapixels and up.

That way you’ll never miss another shot because your memory card is full.

7: High Rez All the Way

One of the most important reasons for packing a massive memory card is to enable you to shoot at your camera’s highest resolution. If you paid a premium price for a 6 megapixel digicam, then get your money’s worth and shoot at 6 megapixels. And while you’re at it, shoot at your camera’s highest quality compression setting too.

 

Why not squeeze more images on your memory card by shooting a lower resolution and low quality compression settings? Because you never know when you’re going to capture the next great image of the 21st century. And if you take a beautiful picture at the low 640 x 480 resolution, that means you can only make a print about the size of a credit card, not exactly the right dimensions for hanging in the museum.

On the other hand, if you recorded the image at 2272 x 1704 (4 megapixels) or larger, then you can make a lovely 8- x 10-inch photo-quality print suitable for framing or even for gracing the cover of Time magazine. And just in case you were able to get as close to the action as you had liked, having those extra pixels enables you to crop your image and still have enough resolution to make a decent sized print.

The point is, if you have enough memory (and you know you should), then there’s no reason to shoot at lower resolution and risk missing the opportunity to show off your work in a big way.

8: Tolerable Tripod

I once overheard someone say, “He must be a real photographer because he’s using a tripod.” Well, whether or not you use a tripod has nothing to do with you being a true photographer. For certain types of shots though, these three-legged supports can be very useful.

The problem is tripods are a pain in the butt to carry around. They are bulky, unwieldily, and sometimes downright frustrating. Does the phrase “necessary evil” come to mind?

For digital shooters there’s good news: the UltraPod II by Pedco. This compact, versatile, ingenious device fits in your back pocket and enables you to steady your camera in a variety of situations. You can open the legs and set it on any reasonable flat surface such as a tabletop or a boulder in the middle of nowhere. But you can also employ its Velcro strap and attach your camera to an available pole or tree limb.

Figure 6. The UltraPod II is lightweight and affordable (less than $20 typically).

You might not need a tripod that often, but when you do, nothing else will work. Save yourself the pain and money of a big heavy lug of a pod, and check out the svelte UltraPod. Yes, then you too can be a real photographer.

9: Self Timer Fun

Now that you have your UltraPod in hand, you can explore another under-used feature found on almost every digital camera: theself timer. This function delays the firing of the shutter (after the button has been pushed) for up to 10 seconds, fixing one of the age old problems in photography: the missing photographer.

Hey, just because you’ve been donned as the creative historian in your clan, that doesn’t mean that your shining face should be absent from every frame of the family’s pictorial accounting. You could hand your trusty digicam over to strangers while you jump in the shot, but then you take the chance of them dropping, or even worse, running off with your camera.

Instead, attach your UltraPod, line up the shot, activate the self timer, and get in the picture. This is usually a good time to turn on the flash to ensure even exposure of everyone in the composition (but remember that 10 foot flash range limit!). Also, make sure the focusing sensor is aimed at a person in the group and not the distant background, or you’ll get very sharp trees and fuzzy family members.

Self timers are good for other situations, too. Are you interested in making long exposures of cars driving over the Golden Gate Bridge at dusk? Once again, secure your camera on a tripod, then trip the shutter using the self timer. By doing so, you prevent accidental jarring of the camera as you initiate the exposure.

10. Slow Motion Water

I come from a family where it’s darn hard to impress them with my artsy pictures. One of the few exceptions happened recently when my sister commented that a series of water shots I had shown her looked like paintings. That was close enough to a compliment for me.

What she was responding to was one of my favorite types of photographs: slow motion water. These images are created by finding a nice composition with running water, then forcing the camera’s shutter to stay open for a second or two, creating a soft, flowing effect of the water while all the other elements in the scene stay nice and sharp.

You can create a painterly effect with moving water by mounting your camera on a tripod and slowing the shutter to an exposure of 1 second or longer. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture priority set to f-8, shutter speed 1 second, polarizer filter, UltraPod II tripod)	Figure 7a.
	Figure 7b.

You’ll need a tripod to steady the camera during the long exposure, and you probably should use the self timer to trip the shutter. If you camera has an aperture priority setting, use it and set the aperture to f-8, f-11, or f-16 if possible. This will give you greater depth of field and cause the shutter to slow down.

Ideally, you’ll want an exposure of one second or longer to create the flowing effect of the water. That means you probably will want to look for streams and waterfalls that are in the shade instead of the bright sunlight.

Another trick is to use your sunglasses over the lens to darken the scene and create even a longer exposure. Plus you get the added bonus of eliminating distracting reflections from your composition.

Final Thoughts

Most digital cameras, even the consumer point-and-shoot models, have a tremendous amount of functionality built into them. By applying a little ingenuity and creativity, you can take shots that will make viewers ask, “So what kind of camera do you have?”

You can tell them the answer, but inside, you’ll know it’s not the camera responsible for those great pictures. It’s the photographer.

Derrick Story is the digital media evangelist for O’Reilly. His current book is The Digital Photography Companion. You can follow him on Twitter or visit www.thedigitalstory.com.

Better Photo Tips - Making vs. Taking

Photo by Pixellens

By: Tedric Garrison

In Oct. 1978, the cover of National Geographic showed a self portrait of a gorilla using a camera. I’m serious, you can look it up if you would like. The cover shot was a self portrait, taken by a gorilla, and by the standards of the day it was actually pretty good!

Each year 100 million Americans also take some pretty good photos. OK, admittedly not all of them are that good . . . but with auto focus and extremely high mega pixels it is fairly safe to say that more people are taking better pictures than ever before. So the obvious question is where does that leave us “serious” photographers?

For those of us who know that “pretty good” is not good enough; we must push ourselves further; we must create with more artistic flair and emotional impact. The desire to move beyond the basics is what separates us from . . . the gorillas of the world. Technologically advanced cameras are now so readily available than anyone can pick one up at their local Wal-Mart just as easily as getting groceries.

Having a great camera, does not make a great photographer. Learning how to create a great photo is not as simple as one might think. There may be thousands; if not hundreds of thousands, of books and magazines that will teach you the craft of photography. But learning just the craft is like running a race with only one shoe. Photography is both an art and a craft.

The craft is fairly well known; shutter speeds, f-stops, filters and the like, are an extremely important key to any photographer’s success. Of course; the craft of photography is only half the story, it’s the easy half that even a big ape could learn (yet not everyone does).

The other half, the one that even those who are looking do not always find, is the art of photography. There is a common misunderstanding that leads people to believe that “art is that which is pleasing to the eye.” While this may be true in part, it is also incomplete. An art critic of the New York Times once said, “The function of art is to clarify, intensify, or otherwise enlarge our experience of life.”

Visit any National Park, go to a scenic lookout point and just sit back and observe. Many people will drive up, jump out, shoot their picture, and zoom off again. This person is taking a picture. Simply put; he will take what is before him and discount all the creative possibilities, because he has what he wants.

On the other hand, wait a little longer and you will see someone who leaves his car slowly. He cautiously approaches the scene with silent reverence. His eyes will explore like a small child in a toy store. He may stoop down low, or strain his neck to see further than his body normally allows. This person is making a photograph. His mind is open to the creative possibilities.


photo by pixellens
If you want to make better photos, as opposed to just taking more pictures there are some basic steps you want to remember.

1. Photograph what you like best. Photography is like a love affair, it is not to be taken lightly. You do not share your heart with every person you meet; likewise do not waist your passion on areas of little interest. I, for one would never be good at aerial photography; mostly because of a fear of heights.

2. Prepare yourself. Learn all that you can. Books and magazines are only part of the resources you have available. Internet web sites, pod casts, art galleries, photography shows all enable you to expand your own vision. It is very hard for someone to think outside the box who has never even tried to open the lid. Give your mind something to be creative with.

3. Become one with your subject. When the opportunity arrives; let your eyes dance across the subject, take in the highlights and shadows. The art of seeing photographically means to go beyond the surface. Take a moment; look at it from all possible angles. Whether your subject is living or not, treat it like your best friend. This is where passion comes from.

4. Think your shots through. What emotions are you feeling when you look through your viewfinder or onto that digital screen? If you can put your feelings into words, the next step is to put those words onto film (or digital media). Have an objective in mind when you go to shoot your photos and you will make fantastic creative images, not just take average snapshots.

5. Multiply the possibilities. The right subject at the right time is what great photography is all about. Shoot your subject several times from several different angles. If this is a once in a lifetime opportunity; don’t leave anything to chance, take multiple exposures as well. Remember, your camera always wants to average the light. If you want better than average results push your equipment as well as your mind.

6. Take notes. A pencil is the cheapest piece of photographic equipment you can carry. If an image is a success or a failure it means nothing, unless you can do it again. Don’t change too many things at one time, least you end up still having no idea what made the image work. Document your efforts and don’t be afraid to learn from your failures as well as your success.

Making a photo is like drawing water from a well. If the well is dry, it doesn’t matter how many times the bucket goes up or down. Your job is to keep those creative juices flowing. As you fill the well, with knowledge and experience, more inspiration will come to the surface. What gives you style or makes your work unique, is what you bring to the surface. The more you put into it, the more you get out of it.

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Award winning writer / photographer Tedric Garrison has 30 years experience in photography. As a Graphic Art Major, he has a unique perspective on the Elements of Design and how they relate to photography. His photo eBook; Finding Your Creative Edge in Photography, proves creativity CAN be taught. Tedric shares his wealth of knowledge with the world, at: Better Photo Tips.com

Shoot Stunning Sunsets With a Digital Camera - Digital Photography Tips Complementary Guide

This was the most intensive sunset we have seen in Suva in a long time.
Luckly I had my camera and tripod in the car

Photo by macrophoto555

By Yvonne Grubb

What draws us to a beautiful sunset? What makes you want to capture that scene? Perhaps the warm colours and tones ... and then there are so many variations of sunsets, which adds that extra excitement, so let's take a look at these digital photography tips on how best to capture a glowing sunset with your digital camera ...

Timing and Composure

Get set up before the sunset starts, at least half an hour beforehand. A couple of things to consider: the exact time the sun sets, which is the moment the sun drops below the horizon. Note this could be affected bearing in mind your landscape, that is, if there are any mountains which could block the sun, before it has chance to reach the horizon. So it's worth finding the right location where you have an uninterrupted view of the sun, perhaps from a beach, edge of a lake or cliff edge ... anywhere with an uncluttered view. This will greatly emphasise the sun and the sky for a stunning sunset shot

You must also consider as the sun approaches the horizon, this is the time to start shooting, as you should see some dynamic scenes before the sun disappears. Take a couple of shots every few minutes to capture the changing light from the sun's rays once the sun nears the horizon. If you have a tripod, this will help compose your shot by keeping everything steady for your framing.

VIP

Be careful when preparing your shot not to look directly at the sun, either through your viewfinder or with a naked eye, to avoid damaging your eyes. Your digital camera will have an LCD panel, so use this to frame your shot for safety. It will help you with more accurate framing.

Can Dust Particles affect my shot ... True or False?

True ... Dust particles and humidity from clouds can have a great effect on how the light from the sun's rays will give you that dynamic sunset. When the sun is near the horizon the light has to travel its longest wavelengths. The light travels though dust particles and water vapour from the clouds, and so helps create that dramatic sky, giving those deep rich warm tones of red, orange and yellow. If you happen to be close to a town, city or desert on a humid evening, sand dust particles is perfect for scattering light - you'll be in luck to get that 'stunning' sunset.

Set the Scene for that Creative Sunset

Now you're ready to start shooting you'll need to frame your sunset. There is a rule of thirds, and to use it, make sure to keep the horizon level low (bottom third of your framed scene) filling the above two-thirds of your frame with the sky. Be creative by keeping some darker foreground in your shot as this highlights the sky, adding more appeal. You may wish to add other objects, for example trees, figures, overhanging ferns (if on a beach), birds etc, which should give you an attractive silhouette, against your glowing sky. If there happens to be low clouds around, then this will add even more dynamism to your shot - you can imagine the scene right now!

Be patient, be creative, I hope you find these digital photography tips useful, but most of all ... have fun!

Yvonne owns Digital Photo Tutorial which offers people information on digital photography tips

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Take Better Digital Photos By Understanding Your Camera's ISO Settings

By Jeff Galbraith

What does ISO stand for, you ask? ISO stands for International Standards Organization, which refers to the group that set the standards for film speed. Luckily, this doesn’t have anything to do with what you need to know about ISO.

ISO, as it relates to digital photography, is an indicator of how sensitive to light your camera’s sensor is, and most digital cameras allow you to adjust this sensitivity. The majority of low to mid-range digital cameras have an ISO range that goes from somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 or 100 up to around 400 to 800. The lower the ISO number, the more light that is necessary to get proper exposure on a given shot.

So why not crank the ISO setting all the way up to the max and be done with it? Although this would allow you to get good exposure even in low light situations, there is a catch. The higher you set the ISO, the more “noise” there will be, causing your pictures to come out grainy looking. FYI, the camera’s “auto” setting doesn’t always choose the lowest ISO possible.

These days a good number of digital cameras employ some form of noise reduction at higher ISO settings. Unfortunately digital noise reduction is accomplished by applying a slight amount of blur to the image, which not only blurs out some of the noise, but also blurs out some of the fine detail.

All things considered, the best way to approach ISO is to use the lowest possible setting, but don’t over do it—using too low an ISO setting can result in blurry images caused by “camera shake”.

Assuming that you are using a camera with an ISO range of 50 to 400, here are some rule of thumb examples:

When shooting outside on a bright sunny day, use the lowest setting (ISO 50). On a heavily overcast day, or when shooting in heavy shade, use the next higher setting (ISO 100). When shooting in the early morning or late evening, use the next higher setting (ISO 200). If shooting at dusk or dawn, you would need to use your highest setting (ISO 400).

However, there is a way to avoid using your higher ISO settings, even in low light—its called a tripod. This three-legged wonder allows you to keep your camera perfectly steady, which eliminates the blurry images caused by camera shake.

Another option to keep your camera steady during low light shots is to set your camera on a stationary object (like a rock or the hood of your car) and use the self-timer. This feature allows a few seconds lag between the time you press the shutter button and when the camera takes the picture.

Remember, keeping those ISO settings as low as you can, will give you clearer, cleaner photos.

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